guanacaste

Beside the Lens #2 by Stephanie White

"Learning The Ways of The Tico"

Saturday, September 6

Was it our stomach's rumbling or the birds chirping that woke us up? Regardless, we woke up to a stunning view of a little beach called Playa Hermosa. 

Not knowing the lay of the land yet, we decided to have breakfast at the hotel. The meals on-site were held on this beautiful deck looking out across the water. We were one of maybe 5 tables that morning and we had no shortage of staff to assist us with our breakfast experience, even though we had no idea what anyone was saying. Regardless, the hospitality of the employees at Condovac was nothing short of fabulous. We did have some difficulty paying our check. I'm not sure we ever figured out how to pay our tabs at the timeshare. Every exchange was different. it was either to our credit card or to the room, or both??? It sounds like it should be easy, but there was a process they followed, and we just never quite got it. But alas, this sunny morning, we met our first friend. This adolescent iguana joined us along the deck railing for our first animal sighting con comida tipica. 

Following breakfast, we took a walk along the beach to the "town." It's hard to call Playa Hermosa a town really, they only had a few local businesses. One supermarket and a couple Soda's (local restaurants) is pretty much the offering, besides random strangers asking if you want to go on their boats or buy their trinkets. Also, most places were closed due to it being the rainy season. We found El Supermercado, and bought a few staples for the week: coffee, rice, beans, peanut butter, tortillas, cheese, milk, tang, of course some bacon for Rob, and oh... rum definitely rum.  

$70 down to "El Super" and the local economy, we were on our way, walking back up the hill to Condovac in the hot, humid sun. I walked back cool and collective, however, a wave of fear engulfed me at the same time. When I went to purchase the groceries, I didn't see my debit card. "Why wasn't it in my wallet?" I had it yesterday because I used it to take out cash from the ATM (twice). I normally freak out about the littlest thing "I'm Freaking Out Man, I'm Freaking Out" many of my friends can hear me say aloud. But I remained calm the entire time. I waited till we unpacked the groceries to search my purse, my wallet (nearly a dozen times), my clothes from the previous day... I looked everywhere. My debit card, our only access to cash for the next 10 days... gone!! Great! How do I tell my brand new husband we have no access to cash? It's not like Rob would ever freak out over money, like seriously ever, but our only access to cash in a foreign country on our second day...c 'mon. I know better. 

But being the oh so savvy travelers we are, I immediately called the bank via Rob's internet calling workaround. Nobody had used the card, and the bank cancelled it immediately. This still didn't solve our no liquid fund problem, but at least we weren't robbed within two days of being in country. So we tried to forget our worries by pounding some rum and sea kayaking for a couple hours. 

Since we had a kitchenette in the timeshare, our logic was, "let's save money by cooking breakfast and lunch in the room, and go out for dinner." Well, that reasoning made for a quiet honeymoon. It took us a few days, but we realized Tico's eat a large breakfast (always rice and beans con anything) and a large lunch (mas arroz y frijoles con anything). And for dinner they eat their lunch leftovers. So, more often than not, even though Playa Hermosa had beautiful beachfront restaurants lining the coast, Rob and I were one of only a few other patrons each night. Probably one of our most delicious and favorite meals was at this beachfront restaurant called Aquasport Bar and Restaurant. They had a diverse menu, chicken, fish, casado, but they also had these divine Peruvian dishes, called Causa. If you see one on a menu, order it! Picture a slice of pie, made from potato, with a filling of avocado. It's served chilled, topped with an assortment of options. The one we tried was topped with fried calamari. AMAZING!! Toward the end of dinner, the rains came again. Rob, with his servant heart and ADD, helped carry tables and chairs from outside into the restaurant. I carried one or two chairs in, they were solid! They topped us off with a traditional Costa Rican shot, called Chili-Guara I believe. I'd call it a bloody mary shot!

Then a nice rainy walk back up the hill to our room, and a perfect second day. Pura Vida!

Beside The Lens #1 by Stephanie White

"Pack it up, pack it in. "

Rob and I had the opportunity to spend 10 days in Costa Rica this September. We've been asked by many family and friends the obvious question "How was your trip?" So voila - this blog was born. Rob's always behind the camera, and since I married the guy, I guess that makes me his wife, beside the lens.

So, in this journal I will attempt to:

* Entertain you through pictures depicting our adventures

* Highlight a selection of White Lily's photography

* Enlighten you with what we learned in case you travel to Costa Rica one day (thumbs up!) which we highly recommend

Thursday, September 4, 2014.

Don't be fooled by those packs. Rob and I didn't rough it, or backpack in Costa Rica. Truth be told, I've had this wretched giant purple suitcase which has traveled the United States, Canada, even 3 weeks through Europe. It's been on it's last wheel (literally) since it's first trip through baggage claim, but has seemed to rally through this last decade. So, we registered for super awesome Osprey Packs from REI for travel AND hiking.

Being cheap, I booked 3 indirect flights to get to Costa Rica from Phoenix. We traveled to Denver Thursday evening, took a red eye Friday morning to Ft Lauderdale, then a 10 AM flight to Costa Rica. We arrived in Alajuela at 11 AM Friday morning. If only we knew what the day had in store for us...

We picked up our packs and headed to the ATM to get cash for a cab to downtown San Jose. I thought I was being smart by writing down the exchange rate from dollars to colonnes. I knew what $1 was in colonnes, $5, $10, $20 etc. That was somewhat helpful, but I didn't think through the fact that in the US, I can't take out $92.32 from the ATM because it equals 50,000 colonnes! So here I was, that American traveler, staring at the ATM in distress, trying to figure what even amount would make sense to take out of this ATM. Eventually, I entered a round number, somewhere in the thousands, took the money and ran. 

We then took a taxi to a bus station in San Jose. This was our first experience traveling like the Ticos (locals) do. Costa Ricans drive super fast, zipping around any car traveling slightly slower than you. We got dropped off at Tralapa (one of many bus stations), and purchased a fare to Playa Hermosa. Again, being cheap and wanting an authentic experience to travel like the Ticos do, we were scheduled for a 4:00 PM departure. It cost about 12,000 colonnes ($22). With 4 hours to kill, we meandered through the busy streets, looking for food and another ATM (since I tipped our cab driver nearly double the fare - I really should have spent some time practicing my Spanish). 

We stumbled upon a Nicaraguan "Soda", which is the name for any local restaurant. I ordered something arroz con pollo, and that was the last time I had chicken in Costa Rica. Maybe it was the mint, maybe it was the way I watched this woman cook it from a bucket, I won't ever know. But Nicaraguan chicken, not my thing. Awhile later, we were ready to explore a bit when CRACK - THUNDER - LIGHTNING, our first heavy thunderstorm rolled through. We knew we booked our trip during the rainy season (low season), but living in the desert, we didn't mind the chance to see rain. It poured for hours, so we didn't explore much of anything, except a convenience store for water, rum and soda. FYI, if you purchase soda (pop) in a glass bottle, you must drink it in the convenience store. I don't chug... so plastic it was.  

Fast forward to 4:00 PM, we're walking onto this coach bus with no bathrooms, and it smells like a truck-stop bathroom. So much for our authentic 7 1/2 hour experience. 3 1/2 hours into our trip, the bus stopped to let people use the restroom, stretch their legs and get snacks. Rob of course, utilized this time to take a few photos. We got back on the bus and little did we know in a few hours we had to transfer buses to get to Playa Hermosa because this bus was heading to Tamarindo, a beach two hours south of Playa Hermosa. 

Enter God. Well, He's always with us, but He made his presence known to us on this bus. Mind you, we're holding our breath cause it smells rank, we're sweating through our clothes with this humidity, it's pitch black since 6 PM, and we can't tell from any road sign where we are - oh - and no one announces the names of any bus stop. It's now about 10 PM, the bus stops, we're restless, and we notice a lot of people getting off. The guys ahead of us get off, and by the Grace of God, this Tico comes to sit in the now-empty row ahead of us. He asks Rob, in Spanish, if he speaks Spanish.

"Un Poco", replies Rob.

"Where are you trying to go?" he asks in English.

"Playa Hermosa"

Whistle !! Whistle !!

This complete stranger immediately jumps up, whistling for the bus driver to stop, this was our stop! We had to transfer busses!! Our driver politely slams on the brakes and jams on the horn to alert the other bus.  He's then quickly on his cell phone contacting the other driver to wait for these 2 Gringo's to get on the right bus. Praise God for this Tico who decided to switch seats on the bus, and start a conversation with us. 

Adrenaline pumping, after sprinting our 30lb. packs down the road and apologizing gratefully we're bouncing up and down on this other coach bus for about an hour to Playa Hermosa. The roads are bumpy, not paved, and low-and-behold, "POP!", the bus pops a tire. The driver stops for a bit, a passenger gets off to assess the damage, and within a few minutes, we're moving again, flat tire and all. 

Finally, we make it to Playa Hermosa, and the driver drops us off right outside Condovac, the timeshare we stayed at for a week. Arriving at the gate to check in, we had to walk up a ridiculously steep hill in the pitch black with our heavy packs. The man at the gate gave us directions in Spanish, but of course we mis-understood, and walked the opposite direction up another ridiculously steep hill. But we made it!! We checked into room 218 at midnight, and we finally rested from our 30+ hour day(s) of travel. You never realize how nice a shower can be sometimes.